Trying to get the stash under control so it will fit into the Room.
Stripes are an easy way to use up leftover bits, and I was able to knit this cardigan almost completely from the stash.
My only purchase was a couple extra skeins to finish the sleeves as I didn’t want striped sleeves. Now I need to choose some buttons and I’ll be done.
The weather here is cooling down, in the 90s today, and I am looking forward to sweater weather!
My granddaughter painted this blue bird for my birthday several years ago.
It has been hanging by my front door, but I think it goes well with the “birdie” theme of the Room.
It will have a place of honor in the Room. Thank you Sydster, my favorite artist (who also writes a blog).
How do you like the new floor in the Room?
I am so happy the red and black carpet is gone!
I don’t even want to put the furniture back, I think I will just sit on the floor and happily knit the days away.
All done and ready to fill with yarn for my next project.
And if my hand sewing doesn’t hold up, I can always resew the lining on the machine.
Who knows, I may start hand sewing everything… hmmmmm.
Using two balls of worsted weight yarn from your stash (I am using Plymouth Encore) and size 10.5 doublepoint needles:
Cast on 28 stitches.
Arrange stitches as follows:
10 stitches on needle 1, 10 stitches on needle 2, 8 stitches on needle 3. Join and knit one round.
Knit 1, purl 1 around for 10 rounds. This will be the ribbing. Then knit every round for 10 rounds.
Set up for heel flap as follows:
Knit 7 stitches from needle 1. Slip 7 stitches from needle 3 to needle 1. You will now have 14 stitches on needle 1 with center back in middle of needle 1. Divide remaining stitches, placing 7 stitches on each needle.
Slipping first stitch on each row (for selvedge edge), purl first row. Then knit one row, purl one row for 8 more rows, ending with a purl row.
Turn heel as follows (continuing on needle 1 with short rows):
Row 1: Slip 1, k7, k2tog, k1 (3 stitches left on needle), turn. Row 2: Slip 1, p3, p2tog, p1 (3 stitches left on needle), turn. Row 3: Slip 1, k4, k2tog, k1 (1 stitch left on needle), turn. Row 4: Slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1 (1 stitch left on needle), turn. Row 5: Slip 1, k6, k2tog, turn. Row 6: Slip 1, p6, p2tog, turn. Row 7: Slip 1, knit to end. 8 stitches on needle. Do not turn.
Resume knitting in the round as follows:
Pick up 7 stitches along right selvedge edge. With needle 2, knit across 14 instep stitches. With needle 3, pick up 7 stitches along left selvedge edge, then knit 4 stitches from needle 1. You should now have 11 stitches on needle 1, 14 stitches on needle 2, and 11 stitches on needle 3.
Decrease (instep gusset):
Round 1: Knit. Round 2: On needle 1, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog (decrease made), k1. On needle 2, knit across. On needle 3, k1, SSK (decrease made), knit to end.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there are 7 stitches left on needles 1 and 3, and 14 stitches on needle 2.
Continue to knit every round until sole of foot measures 2″ less than the desired length of finished sock ( measured from base of heel flap). This is a good time to try on your sock so you can be sure it will be the perfect length.
Decrease for toe:
Round 1: On needle 1, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. On needle 2, k1, SSK, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. On needle 3, k1, SSK, knit to end of needle. Round 2: Knit.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 16 stitches remain. Knit to end of needle 1. Place stitches from needle 3 onto needle 1. You will have 8 stitches on each needle. Cut yarn 8 to 10″ and use Kitchener stitch to graft end of toe. Sew in ends and repeat for 2nd sock.
Kitchener Stitch for grafting:
Set Up: With needles held together and yarn to the right in back of needles, use yarn needle to thread yarn through first stitch on front needle as if to purl. Leave this stitch in place. Now thread the yarn through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit. Leaving this stitch in place, continue as follows:
Front needle: Thread yarn through first stitch on front needle as if to knit. Remove this stitch from needle. Thread yarn through next stitch on front needle as if to purl. Leave this stitch in place. Back needle: Thread yarn through first stitch on back needle as if to purl. Remove this stitch from needle. Thread yarn through next stitch on back needle as if to knit. Leave this stitch in place.
Continue until 1 stitch is left. Pull yarn through this stitch and pull to inside of sock. Sew in ends.
Now you have your own pair of thick, snuggly socks.
Crape Myrtles reaching for the sun.
Texas Sage in bloom.
With a bumblebee.
Cross Vines in yellow.
Gotta love Texas summers, the colors are as hot as the temperatures!
It has been a hot and humid summer this year, perfect for dragonflies.
Bustin’ the stash and getting ready for cooler weather at the same time.
This is my favorite (and easiest) sock pattern.
I use two strands of worsted weight yarn with size 10.5 double points, cast on 28, 10 rows ribbing, 10 rows stockinette, 9 rows for my heel flap, turn the heel and stockinette to the toe.
Like magic, I have a snuggly pair of socks to wear for winter knitting!
I can write out the pattern if anyone is interested. I don’t need the craft room for that.
I don’t have an adorable dog or cat to photograph with my yarn (maybe someday) so how about a dwarf hamster?
He is not easy to capture on camera because he is always wearing camo. And he never stops moving.
Perhaps I should knit a brightly colored sweater? With his name on it?
The zipper is in but apparently straight lines are not my forte.
I briefly considered putting it away until the sewing machine is back in its home, but the primitive look is kind of growing on me.
Can’t wait for the Room to be finished so I converted the bed into a cutting board and am going to give hand sewing a shot.
This will be the lining for my fair isle tote.
The only issue might be the zipper. I have never sewn a zipper by hand.
There is always something new to learn and I am always up for a crafty challenge!
babywren 